In the heart of Mumbai, the National Centre for Performing Arts (NCPA) has recently welcomed a new culinary gem: Waarsa, an Awadhi restaurant that promises to transport diners through the rich flavors and heritage of Awadh. This latest addition, helmed by celebrated chefs Rahul Akerkar and Mukhtar Qureshi, marks a significant milestone in the city's vibrant dining scene.
1. The Concept Behind Waarsa
Waarsa, which translates to 'inheritance,' aims to narrate the story of Awadh and its khansamas through flavors passed down through generations. The restaurant seeks to celebrate not only the indulgent Awadhi cuisine prepared for the Nawabs but also the food cooked in homes. This approach ensures that diners experience a diverse range of flavors, from the traditional to the lesser-known.
2. The Culinary Visionaries
Chef Rahul Akerkar, credited with bringing fine dining to Mumbai, has joined forces with Chef Mukhtar Qureshi, a renowned expert in Awadhi cuisine and nephew of the late chef Imtiaz Qureshi. The duo has previously collaborated on award-winning restaurants like Neel, an Awadhi restaurant in Mahalaxmi. Their reunion at Waarsa brings together their shared passion for authentic Indian cuisine with a modern twist.
Chef Akerkar, who is also the Culinary Director at Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH), emphasized that Waarsa is not just about the food but also about the essence of Awadh. He and Chef Qureshi immersed themselves in the diverse culinary landscapes of Lucknow, Kolkata, and beyond to create a menu that reflects the history and nuances of this remarkable cuisine.
3. The Menu Delights
The menu at Waarsa is a testament to the chefs' commitment to authenticity and innovation. Diners can expect a variety of dishes that highlight lesser-known vegetables like parval (pointed gourd), tendli (ivy gourd), sheng (drumstick), and baingan (brinjal). The set menu includes the Chilgoza Shorba, a creamy soup made from pine nuts, carrot, cauliflower stalks, onion, and other spices. The santre ka shorba exudes a tangy sweetness of oranges in a broth with hints of pine nuts, while the Awadhi nalli ka shorba is a surprisingly light smoked marrow soup.
The kebabs at Waarsa are also a highlight. The Kamal Jhad Ki Shammi, made from lotus stem, impressed with its melt-in-the-mouth texture and perfect spice levels. The Murgh Hakimi Kebab, tender and perfectly cooked, is smoked to perfection. For vegetarians, there are delightful options like Bhindi Kali Mirchi and Lauki Aur Chana Dal Shikhampuri.
4. The Ambiance and Design
The 56-seater restaurant is designed by renowned restoration architect Abha Narain Lambah. The space evokes the grandeur of Awadh while offering a modern, luxurious vibe. The walls have a washed-out salmon hue inspired by surkhia material traditionally used in historic buildingsand the ceilings feature intricate floral embossed patterns. The antique mirrors across the room add depth and grandeur to the ambiance.
The photographs decorating the walls, including those taken by Chef Akerkar himself, add a personal touch to the dining experience. The intricate ceiling designs and subtly ornate modern furniture create an atmosphere that feels both timeless and contemporary.
5. The Cocktail Menu
Waarsa's cocktail menu is an ode to the essence of Awadhi cuisine. Each drink is carefully crafted to intrigue the senses without overwhelming them. The cocktails aim to evoke a sense of nostalgia while offering a fresh twist for today. For instance, 'The Emperor's Rose' is a simple gin and tonic with cucumber, while another version of the same drink comes with a deeper red hue and tastes notably better.
Waarsa's commitment to reducing fat content while maintaining authentic flavors is evident in dishes like the 14-hour slow-cooked Kabuli Dal, which offers the richness and consistency of dal makhani with 70% less fat. The Haq Lasooni Chaman, a yellow curry with paneer cubes, relies on white onion and yoghurt for its gravy instead of almonds.
The restaurant also boasts an almost 50% vegetarian menu, which is a significant departure from traditional Awadhi cuisine. Chef Qureshi, who hails from the legendary Qureshi family, has included vegetarian options like Lauki (bottle gourd), Tendli (ivy gourd), Parwal (pointed gourd), Bhindi (okra/lady finger), and Shakarkand Tikka, which showcases the versatility of root vegetables.
Waarsa is open from 12 pm to 4 pm and 7 pm to 1 am. The price for two people is approximately Rs 2,500. For reservations, diners can call 9594943555.
In conclusion, Waarsa at NCPA is a culinary journey through the rich flavors and heritage of Awadh. With its thoughtful menu, elegant ambiance, and innovative cocktail offerings, it promises to be a must-visit destination for food lovers in Mumbai.
